How to Install a Septic System: 1. Steps (with Pictures)Find where you want to go into the building relative to where you want to place the septic tank. Excavate to at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and go under the footing, whichever is desired, or necessary. Plan for the flow to go downhill from here, as this is exactly what a gravity fed system is all about. It does not use a mechanical means other than gravity to discharge the waste from the tank to the drain field. Pipe 4" Sch. 4. 0 going a foot through the wall or under the footing, and to a minimum of five feet outside the building toward the tank. Set it level where it's going through the wall or under the footing, and from there run with about an 1/8" per foot of pitch (slope) toward the septic tank. Go further or all the way into the tank if required. If not, switch to 4" 3. Be sure to put a test cap on the end going into the building. If going through the wall, seal around the hole with hydraulic cement, inside and out. Don't run too much pitch going out to the tank. If there's too much, the water runs away faster than the solids, and the solids may get left in the pipe. Also, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field, depending on the depth your drain field is, and how close it will be to the outlet of the tank. Wall Mounted Toilet Install and Discussion. When planning our cabin bathroom remodel, we were looking for ways to open the space and improve the usability of the small 8′ x 5′ bathroom and decided to install a wall mounted toilet. We knew if we moved the toilet off the floor and exchanged it for a wall mounted toilet, we would open the room and save a bunch of floor space. Unfortunately, I had never installed a wall- mounted toilet or knew anyone that had. I know they are popular in Europe, and I love the concept, but not knowing much about them, I was hesitant to proceed. We did proceed and, as it turns out, it was one of the best remodeling decisions we made for the cabin. Wall- mounted, floating toilets are nothing short of amazing! I cannot say enough about the Geberit / Toto wall mounted toilet system we installed. They are really that good. So, if you are thinking about a wall- hung toilet system, congratulations. ![]() It’s a great idea — just do it. This article will walk you through our project of installing a residential Geberit in- wall toilet tank and frame system with a TOTO wall- mounted toilet bowl. In addition to the above, you will need access to the waste and supply plumbing and will need to open the wall cavity in the area you plan to install the unit. For us, access for the install was no problem — we had the floor and walls open to the frame for our bathroom remodel. Installing a wall mount toilet with a concealed tank requires a fair amount of work, and it is also expensive. Expect to spend close to $1,0. If you are not planning on doing the plumbing and installation yourself, expect to at least double that cost after adding the install and plumbing costs. That said, and after using our wall hung toilet for several years, I am fairly sure I will never install a standard floor mounted toilet again! Not only is it the best toilet we have ever had (It has never clogged in two years of use — in fact, we have never had to use a plunger on it!), it saves a ton of floor space. It also allows for easier cleaning of the bowl and the floor under it. Awesome! So, if you are still with me and as excited as I am about a floating toilet on the wall, read on for a step by step, how- to install a wall hung toilet. Tips. If you're connecting a new toilet to an existing stack, you only need to install the waste and supply lines. To do this, the toilet must be placed within 10. Happy flushing! Open the bathroom wall where the toilet is to be mounted. Plan the location you would like to install the unit. When planning the location, consider the path of the eventual supply and waste plumbing. Then, demo the wall structure in this area to expose the wall framing and plumbing. For your future plumbing, you will need a 1/2″ cold water supply line to the unit and a 3″ waste line below the unit. The bathroom wall framing after wall removal showing the sad, original two- piece toilet. Modify the wall framing for the in- wall toilet carrier frame and tank unit. There are several types of in- wall toilet tank/frame units available to fit most traditional wall framing. Our cabin bathroom has standard 2 x 4 wood stud construction. This article should help you if you want to just replace your old existing toilet with a new model or you are setting a new toilet. If you plan to replace. How to install a wall mounted or wall hung, floating toilet and concealed tank carrier & frame system for a residential bathroom from rough-in to finish.The Geberit unit designed for 2″x. Geberit 1. 11. 7. This unit fits standard 2″x. For us, this was not a big deal as we were in the middle of a total bathroom renovation and could easily revise the framing for the 2. In addition it’s the width, the unit calls for wall framing load bearing of 8. Knowing this, I doubled the studs framing the cavity where the in- wall toilet frame would be mounted and reinforced the studs with Simpson Strong Tie gusset plates and structural grade fasteners. The wall cavity for the 2. Simpson Strong Tie gusset plates. Plan and run supply and waste plumbing. The toilet system will require a water supply line and a waste pipe within the footprint of the wall cavity. With the walls and floors of the bathroom open for our renovation, it was easy for us to add the exact plumbing we needed for the unit. For the toilet waste line, we ran a long sweep (indicated for all drains, especially toilets) 4″ to 3″ Sanitary Tee just under the unit. This Tee was then stubbed out with a short section of 3″ PVC that passed through the floor plate of the wall framing directly under the unit. To pass through the floor plate of the wall framing, we didn’t cut through the floor plate, but just removed a short section of it (3″ PVC pipe has the same width (3 1/2″) as the floor plate 2 x 4). To support the cut ends of the floor plate, I added additional blocking between the floor joists. This extra support under this portion of the wall framing will help the floor support the weight of the unit in use. This centered waste pipe location is required for the Geberit unit designed for 3 1/2″ wall depth (2″ x 4″ stud wall). Geberit also has units designed for deeper walls (2″ x 6″ framing) that allow for a side as well as a vertical waste pipe path. Floor joist blocking installed to support the divided floor plate where the 3″ waste line penetrates the floor. Long sweep sanitary fittings used for the toilet waste lines. Supply plumbing to toilet unit by 1/2″ copper supply line passed through rear left hand side of floor plate into the wall cavity. For the water supply, I ran 1/2″ copper from the crawl space. I pass this line through the floor plate, along the left rear of the wall cavity to accommodate the front- mounted toilet carrier frame. Install the toilet carrier concealed tank unit in the wall cavity. Mount the wall frame and concealed toilet tank unit in the wall cavity. I used the Geberit 1. As explained above, the unit is 2. To start, I revised the stud cavity width where I planned to mount the unit to accommodate the 2. When framing this cavity, I used double studs reinforced with Simpson Strong- Tie gusset plates to help meet the load bearing requirements of the unit. Mount the in- wall concealed toilet tank and carrier (I used the Geberit 1. Prior mounting the unit, adjust the frame for your desired future toilet bowl and seat height. The Geberit unit allows for seat height adjustments of 1. ADA toilet seat compliance is between 1. We set our toilet seat height at 1. Secure the Geberit In- Wall toilet carrier frame to the wall studs using nuts and bolts or lags bolts.(image from Geberit – used with permission)With this adjustment made, temporarily install the frame into the wall cavity. The frame should fit snugly in the wall cavity with the sides of the frame touching the bordering studs. Use a level to ensure the unit is level and plumb within the wall cavity. Then, check to make sure the carrier frame is flush with the front face of the studs. Then, mark the top height of the frame on the bordering studs to indicate the location of to- be- added horizontal framing. Next, install a piece of horizontal 2 x 4 blocking within the wall framing just above the top of the unit. Although not required, this horizontal blocking is a good idea, as it will strengthen the framing around the unit. With the horizontal blocking installed, mark the frame mounting hole locations on the top and bordering studs. Mark the bolt hole locations at the base of the unit as well. Remove the unit and drill holes in the framing at the marked mounting locations. Use the proper size drill for the fasteners you are using (check the installation documents). Typically, wood framing will require lag bolts at the base and standard bolts with nuts at the sides (and top if using). For my install, I used lag bolts on the sides (I had double studs to bite into) and base of the frame and standard bolts with nuts at the top of the frame. If using lag bolts be sure to drill the proper size hole into the wood framing prior to installing the bolts. If the holes are too small, you can crack the framing. If the holes are too big, the bolts may lack holding power. If you have access to both sides of the studs, using bolts may provide a stronger mount. Install rough in discharge plumbing. Once the frame is secure within the wall cavity, install and connect the outlet (waste) pipe fittings and connections. Connect supplied discharge fitting (black) to frame using supplied bracket and clamp, then connect to waste plumbing with supplied hub- less connector.(image from Geberit – used with permission)Begin by connecting the supplied 9. Then connect the discharge of this fitting to the stubbed out 3″ PVC waste line using the supplied hubless connector. You may have to trim the 3″ PVC waste line prior to connecting. Geberit supplied protective plaster caps. Once the connection is complete, protect the plumbing connection opening by capping them with the supplied yellow plaster caps.
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